The bezel setting, like the prong setting, is one of the most popular ring settings due to its modern look and suitability for an active lifestyle. Instead of holding the diamond with claws, the bezel setting surrounds the diamond, or centre stone, with a thin metal rim custom-made to hold the stone tightly in place. A bezel setting can be a full or partial, a full bezel completely surrounds the diamond whereas a partial bezel leaves the sides open.
The main advantage of the bezel setting is that it provides more protection for the diamond, because of the metal surrounding it. Wearers who have a more active lifestyle will benefit from this, ensuring the ring doesn’t snag or get caught on skin, sharp edges or surfaces. In addition, any inclusions, blemishes or marks on the edges of a stone can be hidden within the setting. The bezel setting also protects the stone from dirt and grim, which can reduce its sparkle. Apart from diamonds, the bezel setting is very popular for softer and more brittle gemstones, such as opal, turquoise, tanzanite and fluorite.
One of the disadvantages of a full bezel setting is that the lower portion of the stone is completely obscured by the metal. Only the upper facets are exposed, reducing the amount of light shining through the diamond and thus reducing its sparkle and brilliance. In order to avoid this, a half or partial bezel setting, which divides the setting into two or more parts, thus allowing more light to shine through, might be a better choice.
Another disadvantage of the bezel setting is that it can make the cost of the ring more expensive as more precious metal is needed in its formation. Also, as diamond proportions vary, the ring will need to be custom-made which can add to the cost. However, we would recommend a bespoke ring every time.